Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
